How to Clean Nubuck Shoes: 7 Steps to Keep Them Like New

How to clean nubuck leather at home (in 3 steps):

1. Dry brush first: Use a soft-bristle or crepe brush in one direction to lift loose dirt. Never apply water to dry surface dust.
2. Erase surface scuffs: Gently rub a clean pencil eraser or nubuck block over stubborn marks.
3. Spot clean with vinegar/water: For oil or food marks, dab a cloth lightly dampened with 50/50 white vinegar and water. Let air dry completely, then brush up the nap.

There is a specific sinking feeling when a drop of rain or a streak of dust hits a fresh pair of nubuck shoes. You look down, see the dark mark on the velvet finish, and wonder if the leather is ruined. It is not. Nubuck is tough, grain leather with a sanded nap. It handles real wear beautifully once you know the golden rule: work dry first, and bring water into the routine only when you have to.

The 7-step nubuck cleaning routine at a glance

1. Brush off surface dust (Always dry)

Start dry and only add moisture if the mark truly needs it. Run a dry nubuck brush over the whole shoe in one direction to lift loose dirt and daily dust. Making this a quick habit after each wear means the rest of the routine rarely gets called on. Never brush nubuck while it is wet, because brushing wet fibres pushes grit deeper into the nap.

2. Erase scuffs and dry marks with a nubuck block

For dry scuffs, heel rubs and darker surface marks, work a dedicated nubuck eraser over the spot using short, light strokes. The block crumbles slightly as it works, lifting soiled fibres away rather than smearing them. Use your brush to sweep away any eraser crumbs once the mark is gone.

3. Spot clean stubborn stains sparingly

When a stain survives the dry brush and eraser, reach for a dedicated foaming nubuck cleaner. Apply a small amount to a clean microfibre cloth, never directly onto the leather, and work it over the mark in gentle circular motions. Keep the moisture minimal. Nubuck can watermark if oversaturated, so less product is always safer.

4. Treat water stains by misting the whole shoe

A water stain on nubuck is usually a tide line, a ring left where a splash dried unevenly. The fix sounds counterintuitive but works: even out the moisture across the entire shoe. Lightly mist the whole shoe with clean water using a fine spray bottle, rather than soaking the spot. Blot the entire surface with a dry, clean cloth. Wetting the whole shoe evenly allows it to dry to one uniform shade, preventing a fresh ring from forming at the border of the old mark.

For white salt marks after a rainy walk, allow the shoe to dry completely first, brush off the loose surface salt, then gently dab the remaining mark with a clean cloth dampened with a little diluted white vinegar. Let dry naturally, then brush.

5. Air dry slowly at room temperature (Never heat)

Always let nubuck dry naturally at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, heaters, radiators, and hairdryers. Artificial heat is the fastest way to ruin nubuck, baking the natural oils out of the hide and causing it to stiffen, shrink, and crack. Stuff the shoe with clean, unprinted paper or shoe trees to hold its shape while it dries overnight.

6. Brush the velvety nap back up

Once the shoe is completely dry, the surface will feel slightly flat or stiff. Use your nubuck brush to brush gently back and forth across the hide. This lifts the flattened fibres and restores the soft, signature velvet texture. If an area remains pressed down, hold the shoe briefly above steam from a kettle at a safe distance, then brush while the nap is warm.

7. Spray with nubuck protector for lasting defense

Apply a dedicated suede and nubuck protector spray before your first wear, holding the can roughly 15 to 20 cm away and applying light, even coats. Allow it to cure fully before taking the shoes out. Reapply every two to three months, or at the turn of each season, to maintain water repellency. In Australian conditions, seasonal protection is especially vital: summer UV fades nubuck faster, while coastal humidity can encourage mould during storage. Re-spray before hot months and store pairs in a cool, ventilated space.

What is the difference between nubuck and suede?

Nubuck and suede both share a velvety nap, but they come from different layers of the hide, which dictates how they wear. Nubuck is crafted from the top-grain outer layer of cattle hide, lightly sanded on the outside to create a fine, dense velvet surface. Suede is created from the inner split of the hide. Because nubuck utilizes the tougher outer layer, it is naturally more durable, structured, and water-resistant than suede. Both, however, must never be treated with standard shoe polishes, waxes, or oils, which permanently flatten the nap and spoil the texture.

Treat nubuck as its own distinct material: use dedicated care tools, minimize moisture, and let the brushed texture speak for itself.

Can you wear nubuck shoes in the rain?

Nubuck is more water resistant than suede, but it is not completely waterproof. A light passing shower or occasional splash will not damage a pair protected with water-repellent spray, and the leather will return to its original tone once dry. Heavy rain and deep puddles should be avoided. If your shoes do become soaked, blot them immediately with a dry cloth, insert paper to preserve their shape, and air dry completely at room temperature before brushing and reapplying protector spray.

What should you never use on nubuck?

• Ordinary shoe polish, wax or oily leather conditioners. They clog the fine nap, darken the colour and ruin the velvet finish.
• A full soak under the tap. Submerging nubuck leads to tide lines, leather stiffening and structural distortion.
• Direct heat to accelerate drying. Heaters, fireplaces, radiators and hair dryers shrink and crack the hide.
• Household detergents, bleach or generic cleaning sprays. Harsh chemicals strip protective oils and discolour the leather.
• Aggressive scrubbing while the shoe is damp, when delicate surface fibres are most vulnerable to tearing.

Frequently asked questions

How often should you brush nubuck shoes?

A brief dry brushing after each wear is ideal. It takes only a few seconds and prevents fine dust from embedding in the nap, keeping the velvet finish fresh and eliminating the need for frequent wet cleaning.

Can you use a suede protector on nubuck?

Yes. Most quality care sprays are formulated for suede and nubuck together because both share a napped surface. Always check the label and test on a discreet spot before applying across the full shoe.

Will rain ruin nubuck shoes?

Not usually, provided they have been treated with protector spray and the rain is light. Nubuck handles moisture better than suede and returns to its original shade once dry. If thoroughly soaked, blot excess moisture and air dry naturally.

How do you restore faded or flattened nubuck?

Start with a dry brush, as lifting the flattened nap often revives the colour and texture immediately. For colour that has genuinely faded over seasons, a colour renovator spray made specifically for nubuck can restore depth. For stubborn stains, consult a professional cobbler.

How should I care for Dakota and Sloane?

Follow the 7 steps in this guide. Dakota and Sloane are crafted from premium nubuck leather, so brush them after wear, spot treat marks with an eraser, and apply protector spray each season. Their memory foam insole and smooth lining provide comfort inside; the brush and spray keep the nubuck exterior looking pristine.

Shop the look

The pieces from this guide, ready to wear.

More from the Style Guide: our guide to comfortable flat sandals and the full guide to choosing women's shoes. For a deeper care reference, the Saphir suede and nubuck care guide is a trusted source.